Caviar-Topped Party Latkes
Photo by Johnny Miller
This is the part where I’m supposed to convince you that my latkes are the crispiest. That their lacy edges practically shatter on contact. You will need earplugs and a vacuum cleaner. But I can’t do that, because our family’s latkes . . . aren’t crispy. (I’ll pause here for gasps.) They’re soft—a variation of placki ziemniaczane, or Polish potato pancakes.
Still, as much as I love my Baba’s version, even I’ll admit: They’re not the move at a stand-up soirée. Cocktail napkins tremble in their slippery presence! So, I set out to develop a different model before hosting for the first time a decade ago—and that’s how these Party Latkes were born. They are specifically engineered for crisp and crunch and respectable social gatherings. And honestly, I feel a little betrayed by how good they turned out.
Caviar-Topped Party Latkes
Makes 30 latkes
2 pounds russet potatoes (4 to 5 large), peeled
1 medium yellow onion, peeled
1/3 cup matzah meal
2 large eggs, whisked
1 teaspoon Diamond Crystal kosher salt, plus more for sprinkling
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/2 cup thinly sliced fresh chives
2 tablespoons thinly sliced scallion (white and light green parts only)
Neutral oil (such as safflower, avocado, or canola), for frying
Crème fraîche, caviar or roe, and fresh dill sprigs, for serving
Grate the potatoes and onion using the shredding disc of a food processor, or on the large holes of a box grater. Lay a clean kitchen towel on the counter and, working in two batches, place half of the grated mixture in the center. Gather the towel into a bundle and squeeze out as much liquid as possible (really wring it out). Transfer the drained potatoes and onion to a large bowl, and repeat the wringing process with the second half.
Add the matzah meal and stir to combine, then add the eggs, salt, pepper, chives, and scallions and mix until fully incorporated.
Set a wire rack over a rimmed baking sheet and place nearby. Pour 1/2 inch of neutral oil into a large, heavy skillet (cast iron works well) and heat over medium-high until shimmering. Maintain the heat as you fry, and discard any burnt bits of latke that accumulate in the oil.
Scoop about 2 tablespoons of the latke mixture and form it into a thin, compact patty, either between your palms or by pressing it gently on a flat surface, like a cutting board. Use a spatula to carefully transfer it to the hot oil. Fry 4 to 5 latkes at a time, spacing them apart in the pan, until deeply golden and crisp, about 3 minutes per side.
Transfer the finished latkes to the wire rack. While they’re still hot, sprinkle with salt. Continue frying in batches until all the batter is used up.
Serve right away with crème fraîche, caviar, and fresh dill on the side, allowing guests to top their own. If you’re making the latkes ahead of time, reheat in a 400°F oven for 5 to 10 minutes to recrisp. For longer storage, let cool completely, then layer between sheets of parchment paper in a heavy-duty resealable bag or airtight container. Freeze for up to 1 month. Reheat directly from frozen on an ungreased parchment paper–lined baking sheet in a 400°F oven (convection, if possible) for 10 to 15 minutes, until hot and crisp.
